Trastevere Treasures: What to see & do

In my books, Trastevere irrefutably has better places to eat than Central Rome.  But when it comes to attractions, it’s a slightly different story.  The tourist route is a must-do for first time visitors and the night version—even more.  But in truth, the Vatican is not the only attraction across the Tiber; in Trastevere lies real …